gabrielscruff wrote:GCKelloch wrote:A Little '59 should do the trick, or look into one of the newer DiMarzio stacked or twin blade series.
Hey Greg ! i really appreciate your tips and explanation ! Really helps ! I'm thinking aobut humbucker in the bridge since the guitar gets even more versatile.... just like in that video.... you can get some awesome tones and turn your guitar into 2 or 3 .... that's what i love about strats....
By the way wat you think about this setup? I think this is another cool trick to do to the strat... new sounds...
I don't know how it's wired, but try it if you like the idea. You can probably use a P/P pot as the switch – cheaper than getting a new pickup anyway. I'm kind of partial to pickup blending, though. I have a complicated wiring I'm going to try, but it might be cool to be able to blend one of the pickups in series with either of the others. You could then tune the circuit resonance with the blend knob, allowing a gradual change from either SC to series mode. The middle pickup should probably be the blend. You would just need to sacrifice a tone knob in blend mode, but you really wouldn't need it there. Not sure how you'd accomplish it, but series blending is a matter of sending one pickup through another via wiring one pickup in place of the tone knob cap to ground, and wiring the other other pot lug to ground. I'm sure you could set up a Super Switch and a P/P pot for some useful blending options. You'd just need to think about how to route things. Otherwise, you could just wire it with one master tone knob and convert the other knob to a series blend by moving the pickup's wire to it, or something. I don't know off hand.
BTW, FreeFileSync is great for PC file syncing. It has many configuration options, including online backup. For system backup and related functions, Acronis is great. I started backing up in the late 90's. I've lost a few HDD's, as is inevitable, but have never lost any data.
It's important to understand how guitar circuitry works to be able to configure everything the way you want, like how capacitance and resistance shape the circuit spectrum before the preamp. High H/Z pickups generally roll off well below 3kHz. It's the reason P90's typically work so well with high gain. These things should really be understood by anyone recommending guitar sound settings. It's also helpful to know how typical guitar amp tone stacks are configured, so you know where in the signal chain to boost and cut to get the gain character you want. Download the free Tone Stack Caculator to really see how common types function:
www.duncanamps.com/tsc/
An averaged SA shows that Gabriel's Metal samples roll off by ~30dB/8ve at 4~5kHz, like any good overdriven electric guitar sound. It's largely why it sounds good. Check them with a SA plugin to see the differences. The defining upper-midrange differences between them are really all below 4kHz. I'm not saying higher harmonics can't be added without it still sounding good, but it's a very standard sound. Boosting 9~12kHz even by 10dB will hardly be noticed, considering that sounds ~20dB below the average song level are pretty insignificant. Tape Saturation is typically used in post to add harmonics above ~5kHz. It can sound really nice if carefully configured. There are several good tape emulation plugins now for PC. Tone Boosters 'ReelBus' is excellent. While less versatile, the free 'TesslaProMkII' tape algorithm sounds great too.
Gabe, I agree that the sounds generally have too much bass, which really should be covered by the bass guitar. I inadvertently do that too with some sounds. Trust your ears and compare a few different settings to get reference points to help fine tune the one you like best. Also, make a practice of adjusting knobs too high and too low to zero in on what sounds right. Listen closely for clashing/crackling upper-harmonics. Play diminished and augmented chords to hear if the upper-mids turn to hash. That's how you tell there are clashing harmonics, but crunchy sounds can be just fine for simple chord structures.
The spectral content/balance of a sound depends on how you want it to fit in the mix. You can save time EQing sounds with a PC plugin by Elevayta called 'Space Boy'. It's a side-chain spectral ducker used to duck the spectrum of tracks and/or busses with other tracks/busses. So, you can use the guitar sounds you create as they are and have them duck the spectrum of any background tracks or busses of your choice without having to EQ them or any other tracks in order to clear up a mix. Purists may not want to use such a thing, but it works quite well if not set for extreme ducking levels. Think about the fact that orchestras and ensembles played together for centuries without EQ. Why waste time EQing tracks if you don't need to, and why compromise the sound of your favorite presets if you don't have to? You can use two Spaceboy ducking “receive” instances in the same song, and as many ducking “transmit” triggers sent to either Receive instances as you want. FI, you determine which tracks will dominate the spectral “foreground”, and the spectrum of those tracks will only duck the spectrum of any background tracks sent to the Spaceboy buss while they are playing. You can use the other receive instance to duck the bass with the bass drum, or set up a secondary background ducking buss that is ducked by other background tracks...or whatever else makes sense to you. Time marches on. Leave outdated mixing practices behind and get on with creating.
It's not standard to use Strat pickups for Metal, so driving the preamp too hard will create upper-mid hash. That's where the drive/dry signal blend function of a TS-808 helps. Since the drive signal is all midrange, there is no hash in it. The dry signal is blended in to some extent, so the bass and treble are heard cleanly in the transients. You can set the amp up for the amount of drive you want on the full guitar signal. Set the TS pedal for unity gain, adding drive to taste. It's important for the TS drive not to sound at all inharmonic, so the amp drive won't then add higher sharp harmonics to the sound. Just use your ears. Better yet, try the free Nick Crow Lab 'TubeDriver'. It's very well-designed, and has up to 16x oversampling for a natural high end. You can shape the filtering pre and post drive, and mix in the dry signal to taste. The Pre EQ LP filter 'Resonance' and drive section 'Bias' features are particularity useful. Bias balances odd & even harmonics. I'd start by using that and the HP filter to shape the guitar signal, but you can emulate different pickups by boosting the low end a bit with the BP filter and/or creating a plateau above the LP filter frequency with the HF Shelf filter. FI, you could set the LP to 2.2kHz with the Resonance at 0.2 or so. Then, set the HFS to ~4.3kHz and boost it ~6dB –whatever sounds good to you. Set the HP to maybe 2ooHz, or whatever sounds right for the drive sound with the pickup in use, and experiment with bass to mid frequency boosting by a few dB or so via the BP filter. Remember: 250~400Hz can be muddy. Below that is up to you for the kind of punch you want in the drive sound. 600~800Hz can have a horn-like quality. Above that to ~1.5kHz can be nasal or kazoo-like. 1.5~2kHz can impart a Hendrix-like sweet brightness. You can instead use the LP filter settings for sweet brightness at ~1.7kHz, freeing up the BP for a bass boost. That's just one generic high gain friendly setup. Surely there are options for higher frequency pre LP filter settings that can work: ~4.3kHz & 6kHz come to mind. The post drive filter settings should be easy to adjust by ear once the Pre EQ and drive section settings are configured. Then, adjust the dry level to taste.
“...fizz more to my ears”. It really seems like a personal preference thing. The word “fizz” is subjective. There doesn't seem to be a definitive meaning. I should think boosting 9-12kHz would increase what many might consider fizz. That could be actually nice. Tape saturation adds higher harmonics, which may or may not sound fizzy. I think there is a certain level of confirmation bias about fizz. Either way, I think it's hard to tell how something will fit in a mix until you try it. It can then be a matter of a few simple adjustments. Main things to listen for are harshness vs definition in the 2~4kHz range & brittleness vs sparkle probably from 4~6kHz. There may be fizziness above that which can be reduced, but it might be fine if it's not too inharmonic. I wouldn't get too caught up in a particular sound, but think more about how to use each element in the chain to various effect. That means understanding what's actually coming from the guitar source first. Tape saturation is good for some nice air. Eddy Krammer did it all before Heavy Metal reared it's gruesome head. lol.
I don't believe there is any reason Nebula would cause more fizz with higher gain sounds. Nebula should technically be closer to the real thing than anything else, so driving it harder might add higher harmonics. Perhaps turning the input down would solve it? It does come down to the cab simulations as well. That's another area of personal preference. I don't know of any 4 x 12” cab that is truly correctly configured for the speakers. Different people prefer certain cab resonances over others. The reason an old Marshall cab sounds boomy and less crisp is because there isn't any sound deadening material inside, so the cab booms at ~120Hz(?) and the reflections coming off the insides partially cancel some upper-mids in the speakers. Neither effect was intentional, and the cabs were not specifically designed for the speakers. All 4 x 12” cabs are much too small for the driver surface area, but they seem to work well enough. Why would you assume that cab IR's are necessarily brighter than the real thing? It all depends on how the IR's were mic'd. Maybe lower sample rate IR's sound more crisp because of aliasing and/or filter ringing? Of course, how could we possibly confirm the supposition?